As the kids say these days: “Let that man cook!”
I recently had the opportunity to speak with Charlie Mitchell, the first Black chef in New York City, and only the second Black chef in the United States, to earn the prestigious Michelin star rating.
And he’s only 32 years old.
Mitchell is the executive chef and co-owner of Clover Hill, a contemporary American restaurant in Brooklyn. And I relished the chance to chat with him on everything from food costs, his meticulous designs for each spoonful, his gripes with the fine dining industry, and why more Black chefs haven’t received Michelin stars.
This interview has been lightly edited for clarity.
Ja’han Jones: Where does your affinity for food come from?
Charlie Mitchell: I grew up in a typical Black family. You know, we fellowship over food a lot. Every day after school was always dinner with your family. My grandmother was the matriarch of the whole family, and watching her showed me what food means to people.
Anytime we were hungry, a family member was hungry, friends were hungry, anyone in the neighborhood, really, could rely on her for a great meal all the time. And that just made food special for me out the gate.
JJ: I feel you. Food really is very experiential with us. Were there any particular dishes she prepared that you associate with fond memories?
CM: It wasn’t necessarily specific dishes. She definitely had her repertoire. She’s from Georgia. So her repertoire was very soulful. But for me, it was more about how she treated the holidays and every occasion and how she just would do so much for us. Those were our fond memories. This woman was cooking for 20, 25, 30, 40 people, all by herself. I was impressed by that as a kid. I’m still impressed.
JJ: Ah, so it’s kind of like the beginning of your restaurateur ambitions. At that age, were you familiar Michelin stars and how prestigious they are?
CM: Absolutely not (laughs). I had no idea what Michelin stars were until my first real job, thanks to…
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